GearFlogger

Black Diamond Express ice screw

What do you call it when your favorite ice screw is updated, making you feel compelled to go out and replace your entire rack at $56.95 a pop? Doubly screwed comes to mind, in this case by the Black Diamond Express, the screw formerly known as the Turbo Express. Turbo is now exclusively the name of the non-speed handle version.

So what's different? Hanger, handle and teeth. The hanger is stainless steel without the formerly black finish, so it shouldn't melt out as fast in the sun. It also has two clip in points; be aware the smaller one just barely accepts small lockers like the Vaporlock and Mini Pearabiner. The handle is wider on the outside for a more secure grip. The teeth are more aggressive and supposedly bite faster with less fracturing of the ice.

Finally the screw itself is lighter, presumably from the reduced hanger weight. A 16cm weighs in at 5.2oz compared to the old model at 5.5oz. Not too significant: 17 of the old screws weigh as much as 18 of the new ones, to put it in perspective. BD's web site also notes that "all sizes of screws are now CE-certified," although their own comparison table still lists the shorty 10cm without the CE logo. Recommendation: snap up last year's model at a discount for $39.95 at BDEL.

$56.95 at REI

Petzl Caritool ice screw holder

If you're still racking ice screws on 'biners you might as well be a one-legged man in an ass-kicking contest. Seriously, you suck. Get an ice screw holder like the Petzl caritool.

It's just a plastic - I'm sorry, resin (like plastic but more expensive to help pay off marketing majors' student loans) - 'biner with a wire gate and a little shelf on top. The shelf is the magic part, allowing you to flip screws up and keep them there while you find just the right one. Sounds minor; it's not.

There's even a little hole to tie in keeper cords for... I don't know, your crack pipe? The clip stabilizes it on your harness; beware it's a bit of a pain to get on and off. Non-load bearing.

$6.50 at REI

Ortovox M2 Avalanche Beacon

Available in GearFlogger Orange - look it up, it's in the Crayola box - the Ortovox M2 is a hybrid digital/analog unit with an impressive 80 meter search range.

Yes it takes a bit more practice to use than some of the so-called idiot-proof units out there, but if you need to carry a beacon than you need to practice with it. Period. Exclamation point. Solipsis. OK, I don't think that last one is actually a punctuation.

The M2 is very well-designed, with a curve in it to fit against your body and a belt system that disengages the transmit function when you unclip it from one end (it's still leashed at the other) to start a search. Great for multiple burials because you can clearly hear the different transmitters.

$269.96 (on sale from $299.95) at Backcountry.com

Wonder Wands

I have no idea who makes these things, and after multiple Internet searches on "Wonder Wand" turned up sex toy after sex toy I had to call it quits when my hand cramped up... from typing, you pervs!

These come in sets of ten, including eight orange flags for general use and two red flags for danger spots. I'll make a pitch for using two wands in an X for indicating danger, which is a better visual mark.

Just over an ounce each. 1.15 to be exact. Yes, I weigh everything.

$13 (3') or $14 (4') at REI

Climb High Titanium ice screw

Ice screws are in my mind divided into two types: the kind you would trust your life to on steep or vertical ice, and the kind you use for lesser applications like anchoring a tent or leaving behind on an emergency rappel. This screw falls into latter category.

On the pro side, it's cheap and light. On the con side, it doesn't have any kind of speed handle, the threads are shallow and it just doesn't bite or hold as well as it should.

The bottom line is that the pucker factor would be pretty high for me were I facing even a short whipper on this as my only pro. You saves your money and you takes your chances.

$13.50 at Mountain Gear

Yates Cable Picket

This is a "New Zealand style pickett" with a V profile. It is available with and without a cable, both at 22" length. I recommend the cable version with its generous 42" runner.

These pickets are a few ounces lighter than most others, and the V profile stacks compactly versus a T profile. They are a tad shorter than most other pickets, which generally come in 24" and 36" lengths, so if you're dealing primarily with placements in soft snow these may not be ideal.

At higher altitudes and in colder regions, however, the snow is often bulletproof and difficult to work. Here the cable is a great assist as it effectively saws through hard snow for faster placement.

$31 at Yatesgear.com