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Metolius 18mm nylon sling

18mmsling Nylon. It's not just for panty hose anymore. It's for inexpensive slings that outperform their high-tensile cousins, for reasons we'll get into shortly. Metolius gives us a decent cheapo with a few rough edges.

Metolius made a workman's sling here, rated at 22kn. It's 18mm wide with pinstriping down the center, just like the decals you put on your crappy old pickup truck when you were a teenager. Don't lie, someone saw you. The rough edges are on the ends, where at least on the one I got it looks like they were cut by someone operating a hot knife under the influence. The ends stick out half an inch from the bar tacking, which won't affect much but is annoying from a purely anal-retentive perspective. Which is the only perspective we know around these parts.

Where the 48 incher weighs 3oz, some of they fancy high-tensile sewn runners weigh in at a mere 1 oz. OK, sure, that's 2 oz. apiece and I like to count grams as much as the next weenie. But picture this: you're clipped in to a piece of pro with your webbing and for some reason you're above the pro, you slip and you fall. Chances are the nylon webbing will hold. The high-tensile dyneema/spectra/kevlar sling will snap, because it can't stretch even the teensiest bit. That means the peak load is much higher and it fails. Check out the current gear guide issue of Rock and Ice Magazine. They confirm tests by others that show this nifty little fact, and remember: knotting high-tensile slings steadily reduces their strength while nylon can be knotted and unknotted forever with minimal loss of strength.

$4.75 to $6.95 at REI

April 15, 2009 in Metolius, Ropes & webbing | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

Metolius Freenut Nut Tool

FreenutEn Vogue says, "free your mind, and the rest will follow." Funkadelic says, "free your mind, and your ass will follow." Metolius says, "free your nut, and you won't have to buy a replacement."

The Metolius Freenut is a "nut tool," which is at least twice redundant in my admittedly limited and gutter-friendly lexicon. Crotch jokes aside, it's something every climber should have on their rack unless they like leaving behind $70 cams for the next guy to extract.

The Freenut has a mushroomed end to smash in frustration without bloodying your palm, and a built in clip to save a 'biner. The curve allows you to more easily get behind a difficult piece, and that's not a crotch joke, I swear. Other than that, not much else to say. It's a simple but useful tool, much like my climbing partner.

$19.95 at REI

July 31, 2007 in Climbing hardware, Metolius | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)

Metolius Mega Pack climbing holds

40holdWinter will be here soon, when young climbers thoughts turn to frozen waterfalls and alpine ascents. Rock climbers, however, will be screwed. That is, unless they have access to an indoor climbing wall, which is where Metolius Mega Pack climbing holds come into the picture.

When I went looking for lots of holds with which to populate the inside of my garage this was exactly what I had in mind: a great diversity of quality holds, including both screw-on minis and T-nutted monsters.

Metolius goes a step further by providing a great booklet with solid step-by-step advice on wall construction for dummies. Also available in 20- and 30-hold packages, but who are you fooling: go big or go home.

$129.00 at REI

September 01, 2006 in Metolius, Training | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

Metolius Personal Anchor System

PasMost of the time when someone comes up with a device that is just a specialized version of something you can rig yourself from stuff you already own, it's just not worth paying for. This is not that.

The Metolius PAS allows a fast anchor tie-in merely by clipping in to the daisy-chain. The multiple loops also make it useful for equalizing anchors in a safe static mode to eliminate risk of shock-loading.

Another use I've found for the PAS is for crevasse rescue. The person not in the slot can drop it over the lip to aid the poor slob who has to work up and over. It works like an etrier and the climber can simply grab the loops hand-over-hand.

$30 at REI (or w/locking 'biner $40 at Backcountry.com)

June 17, 2006 in Metolius, Ropes & webbing | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)