GearFlogger

Petzl Aztarex ice tools

The Petzl Aztarex is like politics: it's all about compromise. Petzl's designers chose their tradeoffs wisely in this case, producing an inexpensive, lightweight tool that can perform everywhere from alpine snow to vertical ice.

At only 17oz a pair of these will save you a full pound over a pair of Cobras. For alpine use, put on a lighter slipknot leash like the Lockdown and save another quarter-pound for the pair. The lighter weight is great for alpine use, but the tool will require more swings on hard ice, so keep 'em sharp. Like I said, it's all about compromise.

The Aztarex has a good bend to save your fingers and reach around bulges. It also has a pinky rest that releases with a screw and can be stored inside the shaft so the tool will plunge better. Since the leash should be taking all your weight anyway I just leave mine off. All told, this is the tool to have for long alpine routes with some steep ice thrown in, and it won't break your back or your bank account.

$199.00 at Moosejaw

Black Diamond Whippet self arrest pole

When a problem comes along, you can Whippet! C'mon, put your hubcabs on your heads! Ah, the kids these days don't know what they missed in the eighties. Probably better that way. But they have cool stuff like Black Diamond's new Whippet self-arrest pole, so I guess we're even.

You have to love a product where the instructions actually tell you, "try to avoid self-evisceration should you wipe out." Do that and the Whippet will be your new best friend. I've carried the original Whippet instead of an ice ax for years now, and you've all been asking how the new model compares. The new (still two-section) Whippet is slightly shorter when collapsed (about 39" v. 44"), barely lighter (14.3oz v. 14.7oz) and has a redesigned handle and integrated pick, complete with cool orange elastic cover. The top of the Whippet is now encased in rounded plastic instead of the slit plastic tube on the original. Finally the upper barrel on the new version is a smaller diameter, so it won't take the old Whippet lower.

On the old Whippet you could replace the aluminum lower section with the carbon fiber lower from the old BD Carbon Fiber Flicklock pole with an adapter, adding point three ounces to the weight. The new Whippet doesn't need the adapter and will take their carbon fiber probe lower section with a small increase in weight of point four ounces. You have to get the probe lowers from BD directly for $11 plus a few $ shipping; if you're going for a pair make sure you get a male ML and female FM, and know that the shorter 125cm length sticks out an extra inch when collapsed. On the plus side you can just pull the lowers out and they're just under 36" so they'll stow nicely.

The same caveats for use still apply: practice with it to get used to the difference in self-arresting with a ski pole v. a shorter axe. Once you do you'll be pleasantly surprised at how much terrain you can cover with the Whippet and not have to swap out to a traditional axe. With a Whippet in each hand- an expensive proposition, no doubt - you can really engage four points of contact and move quickly over pretty steep terrain.

$79.95 (on sale from $99.95) at Backcountry

Black Diamond Axe Protector

Sometimes it's the simple things in life, like not having your partner's axe or ice tool gouge a hole in your new spectra climbing pack while driving up to the mountains. Since he's the only one dumb enough to get up at oh-god-thirty and accompany you on your latest hare-brained epic-to-be, you have to grow him as a human being instead of ripping him a new one to match the hole in your wallet.

Gently suggest an axe protector, e.g. Black Diamond's version, cleverly named... the Axe Protector. At only 1.4oz and under ten bucks, the BD AP is a sound investment to protect all things soft and expensive from the pick and adze on your ice dagger. A pleasant GearFlogger-orange polyurethane with an adjustable elastic shock cord keeper, both ends should fit nearly any axe or tool unless you've got some freaky Viking war hammer jobbie you built yourself with your dad's tools, in which case stay the hell away from me, protector or no.

Maybe you have a hammer instead of an adze, or maybe you're one of those leashless goons whose tool is totally naked . In that case lucky you, save the price of a cold one with the Black Diamond Pick Protector ($4.95 at Moosejaw). For the ultra paranoid, or the obsessive-compulsive climber who must color-coordinate all accessories, there's even a Black Diamond Spike Protector ($4.95 at REI). Unless you've got some scary spike action going on that last one is probably overkill, but if you've been leaving your tool unsheathed, definitely put a glove on that love at least on the pick end.

$9.95 at REI

Black Diamond Spinner leash

Got leash? How about two? How about two with a GearFlogger-orange anodized swivel, one that will save your new ice tools that cost more than your first car - admittedly a PoS Pacer X - from falling into oblivion on pitch 42 of your new test piece, Scary Little Sphincter?

Black Diamond's Spinner double spring leash will do this for you. A mere 4 oz. girth-hitched to your belay loop, the Spinner has two 18 inch elastic webbings that stretch more than twice their original length and clip into the spike of your ice tools. In practice they stay pretty much out of the way, but you might want to run them inside your sternum strap to gather the slack.

The Spinner is a no-brainer for water ice, especially if you want to leash your leashless tools... wait... wha? Hmm. Anyway it both costs and weighs half as much as a pair of Androids. With a strength of 2 kN you could hang on it, but don't. Read this if you really have to be told why. If you're just looking for a safety tether for compatible alpine tools on Denali's West Rib or Cassin, the Spinner is a great choice there too.

$49.95 at Amazon 

CAMP Corsa Nanotech ice axe

When light is right, CAMP is proving they are the go-to guys. They took their Corsa ice axe, added a curve to the shaft and a steel pick and spike. This adds negligibly to the weight of otherwise all-aluminum axe, which now tips the scales at all of 8.7oz. About the only way it's going to get any lighter is to fill the shaft with helium.

Available in 50, 60 and 70cm lengths I took the shorty to test for possible future use on the 2,000 feet of 50 to 60 degree snow and ice in the Chicken Couloir on Denali's West Rib. The pick is aggressive enough for this type of climbing, and at just over a pound for a pair the weight is certainly attractive.

The curved shaft makes it handle like a tool, and the grip-strip really does its thing. Chopping steps, plunging and otherwise banging it about in the Chugach front range didn't seem to loosen anything up, so unless the rest of the winter proves different this baby and its twin are going to Denali.

$129.95 at Backcountry

Black Diamond Blizzard holster

There's only one fail-safe tactic for maintaining control over your tool, and that's to secure it to your person at all times. That's problematic when un-leashing to place protection, so what then?

Well, you can always take the French approach and do what looks cool; hook the pick behind your neck. Damn, now you're styling! Look at yourself! Oops, shouldn't have moved so fast, there goes your $300 investment, bouncing off the head of your belayer...

Or, you can just buy a sub-$10 Blizzard holster (or two) and make the transition as seamless as possible. This is not high-tech, just highly practical; fasten it around any harness 3" or narrower and you're good to go. 1.2oz with a 2.5" flared hole to easily hold most tools.

$9.95 at REI

Black Diamond Android leash

Ever since I saw Blade Runner I've had a thing for androids, so I thought the Black Diamond Android leash was a control device for a personal pleasure 'droid. Imagine my disappointment.

To recap, there are two kinds of leashes for ice tools: clip and slipknot. Clip leashes are heavier, more complex, more expensive and worth every penny on vertical ice. I repeat, if you are climbing vertical ice using a leashed tool, get a clip leash. I use the Android on my Cobras and thank god every time.

The Android really is seamless; the adjustable wrist support is super-comfy, and getting in and out is a simple and fast affair. The clip flips around a bit while driving ice screws, but I've not found it a bother. Be aware there are two versions of the Android, one specific to the Black Diamond Viper tool, which has an install point halfway up the shaft (that prevents getting a grip on the head of the tool, by the way...) and one that works on everything else.

$39.95 at REI

Black Diamond Lockdown leash

Leashes, smeashes. Here's the deal, for ice tools there are basically two designs, clip and slipknot. Clip leashes are heavier, more complex and more expensive. Slipknots are light, simple and cheap.

That's half the story. The other half is how they actually work. You're climbing vertical ice. With a clip leash, you bury your tool, unclip, place protection, clip back in and you're on your way. No muss, no fuss. With a slipknot leash, you bury your tool, attempt to release the slipknot, become frustrated, almost dislodge your tool, curse, finally get your hand loose, place protection, attempt to get your hand back in the leash, become frustrated, almost dislodge your tool, curse, finally get your hand in and you're on your way.

Black Diamond's Lockdown leash does cut down on this a bit, because the loop that releases the slipknot can be looped over the hammer or adze (gently!) to release it. Sold singly in left-hand configuration only, so don't forget to pull the long part of one leash through and re-thread it from the other side for the right hand, a little tip they neglect to mention. Bottom line, slipknots are fine for alpine use, but for vertical ice go with a clip.

$15.95 at REI

Grivel Air Tech Evo ice axe

Next to your climbing partner, your axe is your most trusted friend on a big mountain. The Grivel Air Tech Evolution axe will be there for you when you need it, and at only 16.1oz it won't be a burden. Unlike, for example, certain climbing partners we have all known.

This axe had no problems standing up to a good two-week pounding on Denali after a season of continous use. It plunges well, has a no-slip grip and the slight bend allows it to reach over bulges like a tool.

Pair it with Grivel's Dragonne Leash for protectus maximus.

$152.96 at Backcountry.com

Black Diamond Cobra ice tool

Ice tools are like boots in that they are very personal gear. What works for one climber may drive another climber crazy. Application matters as well, with tools these days falling into two broad categories: leashless for vertical ice and leashed for alpine and mixed routes. You could add a third category for hybrid ice ax/ice tools.

Black Diamond covers all the bases, and the Cobra is their solution for leashed alpine use. I use it with their Android clip leashes and I find the combination to be excellent across the board.

The Cobra has a fairly straight shaft, helpful for plunging in snow. The carbon fiber construction dampens vibrations from hard alpine ice, and with the oval cross-section being aligned perpindicular to the direction of swing the tool has a noticeably softer feel than most others. Tools are a big investment so it's worthwhile to compare, and a day of swinging these and a pair of Petzl Aztars would provide an excellent comparison.

$269.95 at REI