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Mad Rock Fanatic approach shoe

FanaticThe holy grail of shoe design is, of course, a flip flop that comfortably climbs 5.10. I wouldn't be surprised if the mad docs at Mad Rock are working on just that, but in the meantime they've given us the Fanatic approach shoe.

If you're looking for a hiking shoe that climbs look at Mad Rock's Frenzy. If you're looking for a climbing shoe that hikes, the Fanatic is your tool. The laces cinch up snug to the toes, and the burly tongue is leather reinforced to let you really crank 'em down tight. The toe box is rubberized and is more comfortable than any straight rock shoe for camming in cracks, and even the heel is serrated rubber for light hooking duty.

It's stiff enough for serious slabbing and easier edging, and the arches are cut just enough to straddle an etrier if big wall aid is your fetish. A mild lug system built out of sticky #5 Mad Rubber makes short work of scrambles. Overall the Fanatic will get you there and back again, and crush most grades up to 5.10+ without having to resort to your dance shoes.

$74.00 at Zappos

May 08, 2008 in Climbing shoes, Mad Rock | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

La Sportiva Miura rock shoe

Miura_2What do I have in common with Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden? Unfortunately only my La Sportiva Miura rock shoes, because I get kicked off their walk-up routes faster than the French can surrender.

These little lace-up slot cars are designed to concentrate power on to your big toe for the ultimate in small-foothold performance. Pain-free? Hell no! But if you can get grit your teeth long enough to become accustomed to the feeling of standing on the last knuckle of your big toe, you will climb like a scared cat.

La Sportiva continues to have the best footwear lacing systems in the business, and the speed laces on the Miuras cinch tight with no effort and stay that way. The Vibram XS soles grip like a gecko, although I have managed to rough mine up pretty good in just a season. The Vibram is supposed to be pretty tough so maybe it's my sloppy climbing style. Hey, I'm man enough to admit it.

These are great all-around high performance shoes that excel at all types of climbing. Try them on a little small; I'm normally a 42 but I went with a 41 on the Miuras. You'll notice a little extra material that bunches on top of the toes, but it doesn't seem to affect performance and the fit is otherwise very precise.

$130 at REI

July 13, 2007 in Climbing shoes, La Sportiva | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)

Mad Rock Flash climbing shoes

FlashThese award-winning shoes are good performers at a great price. Mad Rock's line of climbing shoes is competitive with those of other major manufacturers, and they appear to not be adverse to buying market share; their shoes are smokin' good deals that often undercut the competition.

I wore these shoes for last year's climbing season and found them to be comfortable if a bit stiff. Since I do a lot of friction smearing I find myself frequently going retro with my early 1990s vintage Five Ten UFOs (Anyone? Anyone? Bueller..?), which are oh-so-buttery soft and smell so skanky I climb extra fast to get away from them.

The extra stiffness of the Flash will be welcomed by beginners or anyone who likes a little extra support for edging and pockets.

$69.96 at REI

June 20, 2006 in Climbing shoes, Mad Rock | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)