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Black Diamond Whippet self arrest pole

Whippet When a problem comes along, you can Whippet! C'mon, put your hubcabs on your heads! Ah, the kids these days don't know what they missed in the eighties. Probably better that way. But they have cool stuff like Black Diamond's new Whippet self-arrest pole, so I guess we're even.

You have to love a product where the instructions actually tell you, "try to avoid self-evisceration should you wipe out." Do that and the Whippet will be your new best friend. I've carried the original Whippet instead of an ice ax for years now, and you've all been asking how the new model compares. The new (still two-section) Whippet is slightly shorter when collapsed (about 39" v. 44"), barely lighter (14.3oz v. 14.7oz) and has a redesigned handle and integrated pick, complete with cool orange elastic cover. The top of the Whippet is now encased in rounded plastic instead of the slit plastic tube on the original. Finally the upper barrel on the new version is a smaller diameter, so it won't take the old Whippet lower.

On the old Whippet you could replace the aluminum lower section with the carbon fiber lower from the old BD Carbon Fiber Flicklock pole with an adapter, adding point three ounces to the weight. The new Whippet doesn't need the adapter and will take their carbon fiber probe lower section with a small increase in weight of point four ounces. You have to get the probe lowers from BD directly for $11 plus a few $ shipping; if you're going for a pair make sure you get a male ML and female FM, and know that the shorter 125cm length sticks out an extra inch when collapsed. On the plus side you can just pull the lowers out and they're just under 36" so they'll stow nicely.

The same caveats for use still apply: practice with it to get used to the difference in self-arresting with a ski pole v. a shorter axe. Once you do you'll be pleasantly surprised at how much terrain you can cover with the Whippet and not have to swap out to a traditional axe. With a Whippet in each hand- an expensive proposition, no doubt - you can really engage four points of contact and move quickly over pretty steep terrain.

$80.96 (on sale from $89.95) at Backcountry

April 17, 2009 in Black Diamond, Denali Approved, Ice axes and tools | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

Black Diamond Carbon Fiber Flicklock probe

Bd_probe When Cartman got an anal probe do you think the aliens used crappy old aluminum technology? Hell no, they used carbon fiber. And if I know my anal probes, which I do, it was a Black Diamond QuickDraw Carbon Fiber Probe 230, the choice of anal-probing aliens across the galaxy.

Also useful for avalanche search the CF230 is a beauty: 7.5 feet of hi-tech glossy goodness weighing in at a meager 8.4oz. Probes don't get any faster to deploy: grab the plastic coated wire loop, whip it out and pull. The six sections snap into place with a cool auto-locking bushing thingy at the end and wah-lah, you're good to probe.

The sections are marked with 5cm rings for snow pack analysis. They are also shorter than normal, the longest (sharp end) being only 17.5in for easy packability. The handle section has a sandpaper-like grip, and the included bright safety yellow bag has a velcro lid instead of a drawstring for easy access. Performance is solid and reliable; the aluminum tip pierces nasty debris as good as any probe out there, and the no-slip strip will save your grip as you make your grid. And don't let a real emergency be your debut: go find a beacon park and practice.

$58.46 (on sales from $64.95) at Backcountry

April 10, 2009 in Black Diamond, Denali Approved, Shovels probes & tools | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

Black Diamond Transfer 3 shovel

TransferShovel: friend or enemy? Choose wisely, and it will be your boon backcountry companion. Choose poorly and your mouth will have the permanent taste of ass, even as your back pains you. Black Diamond's Transfer shovels come in peace. And pieces, for excellent packability.

The Transfer 3 scoops .3 gallons, the Transfer 7 scoops .7. The 3 is perfect for both big mountains and backcountry light. It's 23oz and it breaks down as shown. Note you can't push the handle all the way through the blade like you can on Black Diamond's other shovel, the Deploy. The shaft is trapezoidal (latin for "not round") so it doesn't rotate as you try to lock the pins. The T handle has an cutaway in back that makes it mitten-friendly much like a D. The anchor rigging holes are too small for a carabiner but will take webbing and cord just fine.

The handle extends to 33in on the 3 and 34in on the 7, saving your back. Last time up Denali I took a short-handled shovel and paid the price: I can still taste the ass, and everything I eat tastes like... well, you get the point. For avalanche work the flat bottom makes a clean cut, and the aluminum blade is tough enough for reliably chopping through debris. The smaller volume blade is your friend here: you're going to be moving a lot of snow fast and endurance is important. Do the math: 1 meter deep = 1 ton of snow. So grab a Transfer and a copy of Strategic Shoveling and go practice.

$44.95 at REI

April 03, 2009 in Black Diamond, Shovels probes & tools | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

Black Diamond Ascension Custom STS climbing skins

AscensionIt's not long til ski season, and for some of you it's time to get some new skin in the game since your old ratty ones look like that holey old t-shirt the SheFlogger never lets you wear in public. Black Diamond's Ascension Custom STS skins are often the first choice for skiiers who live in the backcountry; these are the only ones with both their STS tail and a sewn-in tip loop.

The Custom is sold in increments of 7cm, and all you have to do is cut the sides with the included tool. If you're a first-timer, just follow the instructions and in 30 minutes you'll have a complete setup. The STS tail will give you about 10cm of adjustment, so you might be able to use one set of skins for multiple skis: I can fit both my Atomic Chugach 170s and my K2 Shuksan 174s with the 167-174cm skin.

All BD skins climb great, and the Custom is no exception. Getting it on is quick, and getting it off is easy since there's a glueless strip down the middle lengthwise. The Customs are as bomber as they come, so unlike that t-shirt it'll be a long time before you get the evil eye from the SheFlogger.

$121.95 to $154.45 at Backcountry

September 04, 2008 in Black Diamond, Skiing & boarding | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)

Black Diamond Camalot C3 cams

C3Black Diamond has been doing cams since Christ was a private, but the C3 is relatively new for them: a three-lobe cam to complement the recently redesigned C4 that has - wait for it - four lobes.

The C3 comes in five small sizes, 000 to 2, each color coded. They extend the size range of the C4s perfectly, and feel similar: slightly stiffer than some other models, but a nice feel when placing. The integrated webbing goes through a wire loop that provides great purchase for your thumb. The action is a little stiff, but on the plus side they don't walk much.

They're a little bit pricey, but I can tell you from experience BD cams last forever. I've still got plenty of my original double-stem Camalots around and they work great.

$62.91 (on sale from $69.90) at Backcountry

March 02, 2008 in Black Diamond, Protection rock | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

Black Diamond Wiz headlamp

WizlightI guess with a product lineup as vast as Black Diamond's, they're bound to pinch a stinker once in a while. They have done so with their Wiz headlamp, designed - so they say - to be kid-friendly somehow.

Claims: it's smaller, less bright, more durable and has a "tiltable housing." There are plenty of other lamps, including many by BD, that match these specs, so I'm calling bulls**t. The only truly useful feature is that it supposedly shuts off after one hour to save battery life; I haven't bothered to leave it on that long, but if true I'll give them a point.

Then I'll take away ten for the crappy on/off switch that requires you to press hard and hold it down for longer than the average kid has patience for. Once it's on, pressing briefly on the switch in a normal way turns it to strobe and back. You have to hold it down to make it go out, which is surprisingly difficult for the kids I watched try to figure it out. Back to the drawing board, BD. I recommend finding an ACTUAL CHILD to test it this time. And no, prolonged adolescence in your "extreme athletes" doesn't qualify them for the job.

$18.00 at REI

January 02, 2008 in Black Diamond, Kids, Lighting | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

Black Diamond Ice Clipper

ClipperThe Black Diamond Ice Clipper is their retort to the Petzl Caritool: a nifty little plastic (i.e. non-load-bearing) carabiner that is designed to rack ice screws (about six of 'em) and tools (one).

The big difference between this and the Petzl model is the Petzl has an integrated clip to secure it to a harness or pack strap. The BD either fits into small loops designed to accomodate it on BD harnesses such as the Blizzard, or you can use the included rubber keeper thingy to attach it to a non-Clipper compatible harness (i.e. almost every other one out there).

Another difference is the BD Clipper wiregate is designed to stay open when you move it all the way back. In practice this sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. Pluses and minuses: when it stays open it's easier to manage your screws, but don't forget to close it! If you have a BD harness, get this one. If not, look at the Petzl.

$6.95 at REI

December 10, 2007 in Black Diamond, Climbing hardware | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

Black Diamond Express ice screw

ExpressWhat do you call it when your favorite ice screw is updated, making you feel compelled to go out and replace your entire rack at $56.95 a pop? Doubly screwed comes to mind, in this case by the Black Diamond Express, the screw formerly known as the Turbo Express. Turbo is now exclusively the name of the non-speed handle version.

So what's different? Hanger, handle and teeth. The hanger is stainless steel without the formerly black finish, so it shouldn't melt out as fast in the sun. It also has two clip in points; be aware the smaller one just barely accepts small lockers like the Vaporlock and Mini Pearabiner. The handle is wider on the outside for a more secure grip. The teeth are more aggressive and supposedly bite faster with less fracturing of the ice.

Finally the screw itself is lighter, presumably from the reduced hanger weight. A 16cm weighs in at 5.2oz compared to the old model at 5.5oz. Not too significant: 17 of the old screws weigh as much as 18 of the new ones, to put it in perspective. BD's web site also notes that "all sizes of screws are now CE-certified," although their own comparison table still lists the shorty 10cm without the CE logo. Recommendation: snap up last year's model at a discount for $39.95 at BDEL.

$56.95 at REI

October 23, 2007 in Black Diamond, Denali Approved, Protection snow & ice | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

Black Diamond Shadow pack

ShadowWho knows? Only the Shadow... OK, even my gray butt-hairs are too young to remember that particular serial. Speaking of gray, it's the only color available for Black Diamond's Shadow pack. Only they don't call it gray: it's Dolomite. Who is it exactly that is paying people to rename colors?

The Shadow (45L/2,746ci and 55L/3,356ci) appears to have been replaced lately, possibly by the Jackal, meaning you can find it for cheap. It's still a great pack, well-designed for climbers to offer only the features you need when you need them. It's a streamlined rocket at 3lb 10oz (3lb 12oz for the 55L), and can be stripped down by removing the waist belt, lid, frame sheet and bivy pad back panel to get down to 2lb 1oz (2lb 2oz).

Plenty of features to like, especially the PickPocket ice tool system, removable crampon straps and slots in the waist belt for BD Ice Clippers. The stationary buckle system takes a bit of getting used to: just trust it and ram it home. It's a little difficult to get the top lid cinched tight, so if you're cramming a rope under it be prepared for a little creative language as it moves around. My partner likes this pack enough to bring it up Rainier, but he had gear hanging off it everywhere. I call him Yard Sale; go for the bigger version.

$113.97 (on sale from $189.95) at Backcountry.com

September 30, 2007 in Black Diamond, Packs | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

Black Diamond Whippet pole

WhippetEmaciated dog or hit song by Devo? Wrong! It's the Black Diamond Whippet self-arrest pole. Not to be confused with self-abuse, or as the more enlightened Dutch evidently call it, self-improvement. The Whippet is one of a very few options in this category, the others being Grivel's Condor (aka Alu) and Petzl's Snowscopic.

The 14oz. Whippet is the best ski/trekking pole combo of the group. It has BD's excellent FlickLock adjustment system, which I beat the living crap out of recently while in route-finding hell on Rainier's lower Nisqually Glacier, with no slippage whatsoever. The 3/4 baskets and dual-density grips are also excellent. Two qualifications: it's a two-section pole, which is stronger but doesn't collapse very far (take note if you plan to put in luggage), and the strap doesn't tighten enough for my liking.

For skiing, glacier travel and trekking pole applications the Whippet is a great option. Mountaineers will wonder if it self-arrests well enough to replace an axe: subjectively I think it will, properly used. It's longer and handles differently than an axe, so practice with it before you need it. I used the Whippet instead of an axe on the Kautz Glacier route and I was comfortable with it, but I also didn't need the plunging capability of an axe.

$99.95 at Mountain Gear

September 29, 2007 in Black Diamond, Skiing & boarding, Trekking poles | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)

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