GearFlogger

Arc'Teryx Alpha LT jacket

Arc'Teryx earns a twofer: along with the Alpha SV bib comes the Alpha LT jacket, a stellar example of what good mountaineering kit should be. The LT barely nudges 13 ounces on the scale; yes, you read that right, a serious-duty waterproof, windproof shell at well under a pound. With the jacket and bib, all you need is a codpiece and you're good to hook.

It was difficult for me to give up my much-beloved Sigma SV soft shell, but the LT saves half a pound and a packs down even smaller, plus it's fully waterproof. My only real complaint about the Sigma was the pockets; problem solved on the LT with its reach-across chest pockets for easy access under a pack. An internal zippered pocket stashes wallet or MP3 player, and on the left and right hip are little foam bumpers (Hemlock) that prevent the LT from riding up through your harness. Pit zips, zipper garages, helmet compatible hood and a full length zipper flap round it out.

The fit is typical Arc'Teryx, which is to say just about perfect. The few adjustments are all you need to dial it in. The hem drops down in back just a bit, which is nice. The Gore-Tex 3L Pro Shell is getting a lot closer to soft shell, not exactly supple but minimal annoying crinkle and swishing sounds. My only concern was durability, but the LT got lived in on Denali with no visible scarring, including sucking up a sixty pound pack with no complaints. Breathability is excellent. The Alpha LT is top drawer all the way.

$499.00 at REI

Arc'Teryx Alpha SV bib

There are two kinds of people in the world: those who divide people into two kinds and those who don't. Also, those who wear pants and those who wear bibs. Who wears bibs? Drooling infants, for one. Mountaineers, for... oops, redundant. 'Scuse.

The Arc'Teryx Alpha SV bib is simply the best bib ever. The weatherproof Gore-Tex 3L Pro Shell construction is bomber, breathes like a teenage boy watching Megan Fox, and effortlessly sheds the elements. At a mere 22 ounces it won't weigh you down, and the fit is exquisite: trim, a high cut with a Schoeller vest, inner waist drawcord, removable foam kneepads (so nice when putting a knee down to rest), zippers that don't ride under pack belts/straps, adjustable cuffs with lace hooks, instep patches, easily adjustable shoulder straps, we're talking the whole enchilada. The leg zippers don't fully separate, but that's OK, 'cause you'll be wearing these dawn-to-dusk and probably 24 hours a day on expedition.

The design and placement of everything is perfect. A three-way through the crotch zip allows you to do your duty without excessive exposure (make sure it matches your inner suit if you're wearing one; rainbow zips and through-the-crotch don't play well together). The best part? The pockets. Two small inner pockets and two medium outer pockets all zip up to close, and - hallelujah! - they're Napoleon-style. It's hard to stress how convenient this pocket design is. It doesn't interfere with pack straps, it's easier to reach across than back, and you can sleep with all kinds of crap (not literally crap, but small bits of gear) and not worry about breaking stuff, unless you're a stomach sleeper. They're beautiful, man. Save your pennies.

$499.00 at REI

Arc'Teryx Dually belay parka

Aside from being named after a gas-guzzling redneck pickup truck, the Arc'Teryx scores mostly bullseyes with its new Dually belay parka. The lightweight pound and a half Dually uses their new ThermaTek insulation inside a high-gloss, slightly crinkley DWR shell.

ThermaTek is a new synthetic insulation that bills itself as being 100% hydrophobic due to each individual fiber being DWR treated. In practice it does a great job of maintaining warmth while wet, critical when your rope gun partner is raining hunks of ice on you while you're sitting in a wet and cold belay station. It also compresses at least as well as any other synthetic on the market and maybe just a tad better.

Nice touches include a snap at the hem so you can unzip the 2-way zipper a bit from the bottom and have a nice little hole for your belay device without any loose ends flapping around. Every alpine jacket should have this feature. The Dually has two extra-large stretchy pockets inside for water bottles, another big plus. There are two external zippered handwarmer pockets that for some reason have a microfleece lining that feels great until it gets wet. The hood is helmet compatible, the zipper flap is a nice stout design that flares at the top and there's a small but functional stretchy draft collar inside. Note: no chest pockets, which is fine because if you're wearing three layers chances are you've got chest pockets on every one of them already.

The Dually is a great synthetic parka no doubt. My guess is most people will find it comfortable down to about zero degrees Fahrenheit with a medium weight layer underneath. One minor but important piece of weirdness is the size: it's way bigger than you think, and that will throw a lot of people who are used to the tailored cut of Arc'Teryx clothing. Go at least a size down and you'll still have plenty of room for layers.

$498.95 at Backcountry

Arc’Teryx Gamma SV Hoody women’s jacket

Arc'Teryx makes a mean soft shell, no doubt. They pay extra attention to details like stitch counts and anatomically correct articulation to ensure that fit and finish are at the head of the pack. The Gamma SV Hoody is their built-for-speed yet tough-as-nails alpine alternative.

The svelte 20oz Gamma is made from two different weights of soft shell material: Polartec Power Shield High Loft (ooh, so plush... stroke the monkey!) on the torso and shoulders for warmth and lighter-weight, less-bulky Polartec Power Shield everywhere else. The whole garment has a beautiful hand and cut, and the four-way stretch means it moves with a purpose.

Arc'Teryx made some bold design choices that end up working very well. The nonremovable (check out the hoodless Gamma AR if that's your bag) drop-away hood is helmet compatible, with a reinforced brim and a nifty hidden adjustment cord. There are two external zippered handwarmer pockets and an internal zippered small chest pocket. The hem is adjustable but the cuffs are not, and there are no pit zips, which doesn't much matter because the thinner material there vents perfectly well. The Gamma SV definitely puts the soft in soft shell.

$349.95 at Backcountry

Arc'Teryx Sigma SV jacket

Last year I was searching desperately for a soft shell to take up Denali and after trying a few different makes and models I found this great piece from Arc'Teryx. It performs flawlessly over a wide range of conditions, keeping out snow, wind and rain with equal aplomb. Breathability is excellent.

The intelligent design includes a versatile hood that fits just right and can be snugged down to turn with your head, reflecting the signature tailored fit that Arc'Teryx is famous for. The only thing I wonder about is whether the pockets might work better if the openings were towards the center, rather than towards the arms, for ease of access.

The Sigma SV is a soft shell for hard conditions and highly recommended.

$298 at Backcountry.com